NorseBoat Rigging Instructions
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1. Insert the battens in the mainsail and slide the head of the sail into the boltrope track in the gaff. Secure the gaff gooseneck pivot point to the grommet located near the luff at the head of the sail (this prevents the sail from pulling out of the forward end of the boltrope track). Pull the outhaul line to tension the head of the sail. Run the outhaul line into the end of the boltrope track, around the aft end of the gaff, and secure to cleat. Shackle the mainsail tack to the top eyebolt in the boom gooseneck.
2. Place the bottom section of the mast in the mast step hole. Make sure the mast seats firmly on the mast puck located in the floor of the forward compartment.
3. Slide the mainsail and gaff wood hoops over the bottom mast section (beginning with the boom hoop, and make sure the hoops are all oriented the right way up).
4. Slide the boom into the mast gooseneck pin. Hook the outhaul line located on the aft end of the boom into the clew of the mainsail. Tension the outhaul line and secure to the cleat on the under/aft side of the boom. This keeps the boom 'locked' into position so it can't slip out of the pin.
Take the top mast section and:
5. Run the throat halyard (on new boats its a black rope with red tracers) from the gaff gooseneck (tied with a bowline around the gooseneck pivot point) up through the eyestrap on the aft side of the masthead, through the masthead sheave, down to standing block #1 (far port foward), through #1 hole in the coaming, into #1 camcleat (on new boats its a red fairlead).
6. Run the peak halyard (on new boats its a black rope with white tracers) from the bail on the center of the gaff to the swivel block just below the head of the mast, down to standing block #2 (far port aft), through #2 hole in the coaming, into #2 camcleat (on new boats its a black fairlead).
7. Run the downhaul line (on new boats its a black rope with blue tracers) from the bottom of the boom gooseneck down to standing block #3, through #3 hole in the coaming, into #3 camcleat (on new boats its a blue fairlead).
8. Attach the reef hook on the reefing line (on new boats its a black rope with yellow tracers) in the first reef grommet in the mainsail luff, down to standing block #4, through #4 hole in the coaming, into #4 camcleat (on new boats its a yellow fairlead).
9. Run the screecher halyard (on new boats its a black rope with green tracers) through swivel block on mast hounds (forward side of the mast), down to standing block #5 (far starboard foward), through #5 hole in the coaming, into #5 camcleat (on new boats its a green fairlead).
10. Run the furling line (on new boats its a small black rope with red tracers) from the furling drum through #6 hole in the coaming, into #6 camcleat (on new boats its the small one with red fairlead).? There should be enough line on the drum so that the headsail furls completely, ideally with one wrap of the sheets.
11. Keeping the lines in the right order, place the top section of the mast on the bottom section. Make sure the alignment of the upper mast section is correct (peak halyard swivel block facing aft and screecher hounds and swivel block facing forward).
12. When raising the mainsail, pull both throat and peak halyards in one motion until the sail is up. Tension the sail luff with the downhaul line, then adjust the peak halyard to get a good set to the sail. |